*PLEASE NOTE: THIS PRODUCT IS NOT COMPATIBLE WITH HOSE BARBS USING A RECESSED O-RING SUCH AS D-TEK*

Inside your packages you will find the Water Block and Mosfet heatsinks in plastic
bags. There is another smaller bag in with the water block that contains the water
blocks mounting hardware.

You will also find five foam pads (one spare)  to apply to the MCP southbridge chip
substrate to stabilize the EverCool MCP cooler's (not included - please purchase separately) mount inside that smaller bag in with
the water block as well.  Refer to the attached MCP Foam Stab Pads.jpg for
where to place the foam pads on the MCP chip substrate before mounting the MCP
cooler.

Some notes here:

(1) Resist the temptation to disassemble the water block to look inside please.  The
water blocks base is fly cut and lapped after assembly  to be insure the base is true
and flat  and any base distortions from tightening the WB's assembly screws is
removed.  If  you disassemble then reassemble that flat/true lap job will be lost.

(2) The single row mosfet heatsink base is deliberately crowned outward at the
center.  This is to help compensate for the motherboard  bow that occurs in this  area
when a CPU cooler is installed...even when a backplate is used.

(3) If your motherboard uses thermal interfaces pads (typically found on the stock
 mosfet strip heatsink) do not reuse them when installing any of the Viper kit parts.

(4) The coolant can flow through the water block in either direction and makes no
difference in cooling performance one way or the other.

(5) If you are going to use or are changing the hose barbs to the  G1/4 chrome Hi-Flow
 type from Swiftech, Danger Den, EK, etc  you MUST use the hose barb o-rings that
come with the Viper 780i SPP/NF200 water block and NOT the o-rings that come with
the Hi-Flow hose barbs.
 
The mosfet heatsinks mount using four of the stock 2mm insulated spring screws that
are used to retain the stock 780i chipset cooler assembly.   After cleaning the mosfets
of any old TIM apply a dab of either Arctic Silver Ceramique or Tuniq TX-2 compound
to each mosfet and install the heatsinks.  If you thread a round tooth pick part way into
each threaded heatsink hole they make a handy pilot for lining the heatsinks up with
the mounting holes in the motherboard.

Installing the water block is pretty simple.  Refer to the attached 780i Nb Wb Mount.jpg
drawing for the water block mounting hardware install order.  The insulating washers
in the picture are the .015" thick grey fiber washers.

(1) Remove the mounting screw/washer/spacers sets from the small bag containing mount
      hardware and set aside within easy reach.  Place the hardware in small dish/bowel so
      no pieces get lost before you install them.

(2) Remove the protective film from the WB base and clean off any residue with Acetone,
      Lacquer Thinner or Denatured Alcohol and a paper towel.  Do the same to clean
      off  the old thermal compound  from the SPP, NF200 and MCP dies/substrate as well
      as the mosfets.  Note if you warm the protective film covering the water blocks base
      with a heat gun or hair blow dryer it will come off very easily and cleanly.

(3) Applied thermal compound to the SPP and NF200 chip dies.  I recommend either
      Arctic Silver Ceramique or Tuniq TX-2 compounds.  Do not use AS5 or any metal
      bearing thermal compound as the are capacitive (not conductive) so any compound
      squeeze out that get on the bypass, noise suppression or de-coupling SMC's on the
      chip substrates will change their capacitance values and characteristics.

(4) Stand the motherboard on end with the PCI/PCIe slots facing up.  Insert all four
      mounting screws w/  washers through the back of the MB then slide  a precision
      length machined Nylon Spacer onto each screw.  It really helps to have a helper
      as a third hand here.

(3) Grab the WB and with the offset hose barbs toward the PCIe slot start a screw into
      one of the WB mounting holes then do the same with the other 3 screws.  Make sure
      the spacers stay on all of the screws and try not to let the WB base contact the chip
      dies before at least two diagonal screws are in and the water block is aligned.  This
      prevents the water block from sliding and smearing  the thermal compound around
      before the water block is properly lined up with it's mounting holes in the motherboard..

(4) Once all the crews are started (again make sure all spacers are still on the screws)
      press  the water down onto the spacers and chip dies and tighten all screws until they
      come into contact with the lock washers.  Do not tighten any mounting screw all of the
      the way until all mounting screws are in lite contact with the lock washers.

(5) Snuggly/Firmly tighten all mounting screws in a criss/cross pattern.  You do not need
       to go killer tight here.

(6) That's you done.